We used to have a restaurant here run by a lovely young couple, Lien and Tang. It was our first favourite Thai restaurant and it was only much later that we learned it was far closer to Pan-Asian than straight Thai food. Lien and Tang were Laotian, had lived in Cambodia and swam across the Mekong while escaping to Thailand. Their food reflected their diverse life experiences and our absolute favourite thing they made was this compellingly odd fish soup that they called simply Thai fish soup. It was white fish in a deeply spiced chicken broth loaded with chiles, dill, tomatoes and pineapple. They retired from the restaurant business a few decades ago, so now we have to make it.
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