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Thread: Sea-Dweller ID

  1. #11
    Super Member Raza's Avatar
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    Another detail I noticed. It looks like it has applied markers, which, according to the pictures in the linked article, they didn’t do until the 16600.

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/re...ex-sea-dweller

    And the SD 116600 had markers all the way around the bezel, so it’s definitely not nearly as new as that. He also said the lume is dead, so that makes it at least 25 years old.

    I think it’s got to be an early 16600, which would place it as late 80s/early 90s.
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  2. #12
    Hall Monitor Samanator's Avatar
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    Sea-Dweller ID

    You may be correct. I had a friend that got one like that and he told me it was late 70’s. Those are not my thing looks wise and I'm not a vintage watch person so my refereence may be flawed. I would suggest comparing to some on Bob's.
    Last edited by Samanator; Apr 9, 2025 at 07:14 PM.
    Cheers,

    Michael

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  3. #13
    Hall Monitor Samanator's Avatar
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    This is an 84 and it looks very similar. I not certain how long this style was made.
    https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-se...ess-steel.html. This is in much better condition. I don't think they changed them as ofter. I belive the sub in 1985-86 went to a sapphire crystal with the cyclops which is close to this time. Prior to this it was a plastic crystal. My first Rolex was an 86 TT Sub.
    Cheers,

    Michael

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  4. #14
    Super Member Raza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samanator View Post
    This is an 84 and it looks very similar. I not certain how long this style was made.
    https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-se...ess-steel.html. This is in much better condition. I don't think they changed them as ofter. I belive the sub in 1985-86 went to a sapphire crystal with the cyclops which is close to this time. Prior to this it was a plastic crystal. My first Rolex was an 86 TT Sub.
    It does look very similar, it’s possible that it’s a late 16660 and not a 16600, I think the only way to know for sure would be to open it and take a look at the movement. 3035 or 3135. They made both for a long time, but the one in the link confuses me because it says “Swiss Made” and I don’t know if the 16660 ever didn’t say Swiss T<25. Hard to find that out.
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  5. #15
    Moderator - Central tribe125's Avatar
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    I’d say it was a 16600 made between 1988 and 1999. It would have a 3135 movement.

    I say this after looking at a few dozen examples for comparison, quite a few of which show cleaner lume than you might expect. A better photo might show that the lume isn’t quite as clean as it looks. The lume dot on the bezel does look quite degraded, but it might have suffered some abrasion.

  6. #16
    Super Member Raza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tribe125 View Post
    I’d say it was a 16600 made between 1988 and 1999. It would have a 3135 movement.

    I say this after looking at a few dozen examples for comparison, quite a few of which show cleaner lume than you might expect. A better photo might show that the lume isn’t quite as clean as it looks. The lume dot on the bezel does look quite degraded, but it might have suffered some abrasion.
    He did mention that his daughter dropped it. For the ID, I think I’m leaning towards what you’re thinking as well.
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  7. #17
    Hall Monitor Samanator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raza View Post
    It does look very similar, it’s possible that it’s a late 16660 and not a 16600, I think the only way to know for sure would be to open it and take a look at the movement. 3035 or 3135. They made both for a long time, but the one in the link confuses me because it says “Swiss Made” and I don’t know if the 16660 ever didn’t say Swiss T<25. Hard to find that out.
    Accoring to a few sourcess 1998 would be the last time Rolex had Tritium lume. The same sources say this was phased over time from 1990 on. The Sea Dweller got Luminova in 1998...
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    Michael

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  8. #18
    Moderator G-Shock/Digital Sedi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samanator View Post
    That’s not so easy because you need the fine tooth case socket that fits the rear bezel. Generally, they’re too tight to use one of the balls on.
    I wouldn't open a RLX myself but just a general trick I used to open very stubborn casebacks (not sure it would have worked here): use a roll of gaffa tape, flap over a part of the tape so the sticky side is on the outside -- press on the caseback and use the whole roll for leverage to turn the caseback. It will leave glue on the caseback however but I managed to open watches that way that wouldn't budge with a normal 3-prong opener.
    Cheers, Sedi

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