well we have touched on this on other threads. but my thought is.It is so dam hard to know what is original what is re-issues and what is franked this day and age so was looking in to it there was some good threads from old across the way so will be dipping into them for bits of info to get the ball rolling will include links too the whole of the two threads I got in mind .
But will stick up some pics here as it will be easier for discussion so the next bit is down to strela via tammo ? I think not sure from reading it but that's how it seems so thanks tammo who ever you are.
1: Jewel setting of the gear train.
In contrast to the 15 jewel Pobeda, the jewel setting is different. They reside in recessed openings of the top plate. These recesses are needed because of the stop second mechanism which needs space and moves the top plate up.
2: Date code. There must be a date code on the movement. The code consists of one digit for the quarter of the year and 2 digits for the year. Since the watch was made between 1949 and 1954, expect here a value of 1-49 to 4-53. The serial number should be consisting of 5 digits.
3: Spring ratchet wheel.
No text or symbols should be present on this wheel. It should be polished in a pattern presenting a shallow S.
4: 1st Moscow Watch Factory diamond Logo and 15 Jewels
5: U shaped spring stopping the balance wheel
The watch has an hack second. When pulling the crown, this U-shaped spring is being pushed against the Balance wheel and stops the watch. (Only visible when crown is pulled)
6: Polished Moscow (Geneva) stripes
The movement is nicely finished with polished stripes, like the Pobeda 15 jewel versions.
The difference is that for the Shturmanskie?s movement the base plate is also been polished, which visible under the Balance wheel. There is no shock protection present. The Balance cock is also polished under the adjustment lever.
7: Crown
The Shturmanskie has this pillow shaped crown, like the military Pobeda.
Dial of the watch:
8: Second Hand
It should be Red coloured, with a ?clover leaf?shaped end.
9: The Minute and Hour hand are luminous, but the frame of the hand should be Blue
10: There is no reference text to ?made in the USSR? on the dial near the 6.
Back of the watch:
11: The back cover should be a snap-on type. For the Soviet version there are no issue numbers are any other data.
The watch was also issued to the Soviet allies, so far only Czech versions could be found. This watch was issued to the Czech airforce. (It is likely that the Czech pilots received their training and graduated on the Soviet Airforce schools.) The text mentions ? Property of the military administration? and the serial number.
Success in your quest for an early Shturmanskie !
Tammo
So that is a good start so what are your thought to this or other useful links maybe or any experiences you may have had of them would be grand to here
As always Ismy
“Better to be a broken piece of jade than an intact piece of pottery.”
I'm with you on this ,it's so hard now days for the inexperienced buyer to find one that is near original. I have been close to the trigger on a modern one but always held back. I did see an original at a gtg, OD bought it I believe not a big watch but about the right size. I think strela167 has a more modern example.
well had a chance to get my hands on a couple of these today both none working am afraid so one had a fake dial (well guessing fake as was taking a look at them for a friend and he had rubbed part of the minute track off when trying to fix it ... ( I said had not heard of that happening so got to be a new cheaply made dial maybe ? )
the other one might be more real as it was a bit of a cut and shunt as when stripping down it had one pin and the other had been glued on place but the dial just felt good and when stripping down no lose of marking at all and just feel right hard to say why, so maybe coming from an old broken watch ..
one movement was a 15 jewelled and one was a 17 jewelled but as I say they was a no go but have manged to save the dial hands and case crown / stem.. so probably will get a new old movement and do a swap out for it ...
but now I think I will have to maybe get myself one now I got a close up with a real one they do pop in the flesh will see how some pics I took turn out
“Better to be a broken piece of jade than an intact piece of pottery.”