**** How to modify a 6497/6498 movement ****

[is that my watch]

Have you ever thought about making your own watch well it is not as impossible as it seems as long as you go step by step the dial some would start with that they may see a dial they must have then everything else follows, then some it is the case that inspires them more about that on another occasions.

For me this time is was a dial of a pan in a sunburst blue with orange markers had to have it and bought it the seller claimed it would fit a 6498/6497 movement ( it does IF you modify the movement more on that in a minute ) so bought a few weeks go to maybe a month it arrives had a lovely pan style luminor case for it first problem won't fit the dial is like 38.9 mm the only pan a like case to fit that are supper expensive so what to do went for a pilot style case which are always bigger ( well as a rule ) so that arrived (several weeks later ) fitted lovely.

Well to hands I did a thread and choose a set they arrived (about two weeks wait maybe a bit longer only not to fit even thou stated would fit the movement they just would not go on ) I had built a skeleton watch using the same movement so nicked the hands of that and they fitted . so now to put the watch together ..

No where did it state that I saw too actual use this dial on a 6497 / 6498 you would have to modify the movement it fits the clamps drops in to place but you can't fix it in as the seconds pinion is contacting the dial back stopping it from sitting flat and stopping the movement from working it is an easy fix in a way .

Depending on how you do it I would not advised cutting or sanding it down on the movement as this will put metal dust in to the movement and might on service strip down cause the cog to be hard to remove plus hard to get at to cut with clippers and you don't want to push the cog out of position.

So it is simpler to open the movement by removing three screws and a plate and then removing it apparently there is a replacement part with a ready trim pinion but I had not got one so just as good I trimmed it down with a dremel as cutting it off could be a bit difficult as you don't want to bend the pinion the aim it just to cut enough that when it is put back it just lower then the dial as it sits in a dip on the movement. so all you want is so when you run your finger over the front plate you can't feel the pinion any more.

so how to do this I wont go in to details on how to remove the dial in this instant as this is a build from order parts so it would not be on there (but can if asked thou )

so we have the movement striped down of dial /hands now we can fix it to a movement holder but for quickness this time I just used a padded flat surface depend on movement there is different risk with a fully movement nominal risk for a skeleton more so as very open to be damaged if anything pokes in so maybe should use a movement holder on this type at the time of the pics this was a faulty movement so was using it as a practice movement so was not being as careful as I would normal be (funnily enough thou I fixed the movement while doing this)



ok so where was I we had the movement safe secured to a movement holder you first remove these two screws (full movement there are three) gentle (I would advise to make sure the watch is unwound at this point or the three cog in this part could go flying ) so then gentle lift the plate straight up trying not to disturb any thing makes it easy for you to get any idea of the set up .. would advise a bit's box to put these screws plate in too and have a spare one just in case the cogs do pop out to store then why trimming down the cog pin ..





so the central cog carefully lift out remember lift as the pinion goes through jewelled so you don't want to bend the pinion or damaged the Jewell if in doing so the other cogs get not out of position just gentle put back ..



so now we have the seconds cog out ( could be off on the names of these cogs but you know what I mean) so now we got to trim it down I could not get a decent pic so have borrow one to show the cog and where to cut it basically half way BUT make sure of which side you are cutting thou you don't want to cut the wrong one as that would make it un-usable and would need to get another then ..





so once cut you will put back (making sure the cog is the right way up if the other cogs have been knocked just gentle position them then put the plate back on and screw down now when you run your finger over the front plate you should not be able to feel the second pinion,



then when using a dial with out seconds it will sit flat and work well or so in theory

As always Ismy

[skywatch]

Love ya, Ismy. Two nations divided by a common language. I understood about 2/3 of your writing but could interpolate the rest. I have also delved into a bit of fixing but not so much the original builds or mix-assemblage as you do. Some good advice here (like letting it wind down before working - spring action not helpful in disassembly!) Many thanks.

[is that my watch]

Love ya, Ismy. Two nations divided by a common language. I understood about 2/3 of your writing but could interpolate the rest. I have also delved into a bit of fixing but not so much the original builds or mix-assemblage as you do. Some good advice here (like letting it wind down before working - spring action not helpful in disassembly!) Many thanks.

I have found conversions are easier and using a Russian 3602 movement. but I think modifying a 6497/98 gives you a lot more options with dials and cases, I just got a 6497 solid movement and a 37.mm cases and a set of vintage blue hands was hoping to do a marriage with a 3609 dial but it is to thick so am looking for a parnis dial for it in 37.mm ... also just pic up a 3602 kit of case / dial / hands but am needing a 3602 movement to finish that one