Dirty boy , use a lathe like everyone elseOriginally Posted by drunken monkey
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Dirty boy , use a lathe like everyone else
I am obviously no watch-maker nor an engineer and my grasp of the actual details of how these things work is very basic.
That layout is a directly driven centre wheel/pinion/seconds hand.
The alternative is an indirectly driven where the centre wheel is actually the fourth wheel.
So a couple of questions.
First of all, is my description above regarding the difference between the two arrangements correct?
Secondly, what are the typical sizes of the various screws used?
I know one of the manufacturers, it could be Rolex, use only one size screw for nearly everything. In general, I'm missing a few dimensions of "standard" parts for reference so I can play with parts layouts in a better fashion.
In the multi-year watchmaking course in Switzerland (or the similar AWCI program) you will make your own movement. But you can't start at the end. It's like every other technical skill, there is an educational and a separate skill training component, and considerable practice.
The big companies spend four or five years developing a new movement, even when they aren't working from scratch, but much of it is designing the tooling and production capability. Making a single movement isn't that hard if you copy critical components of an existing design. If you take a vintage hand wind and use the same assortment and mainspring, working out the gearing is a depthing exercise using stock wheels and pinions. The keyless works are probably harder to design than the going train.
Adding an auto winder or certain complications is another matter.
Rick "old telescope maker's adage: if you want to grind a 12-inch mirror, grind a 6- inch mirror first" Denney
More than 500 characters worth of watches.
Nothing typical here:
https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/s...watch-assorted
https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/br...ws-wristwatch1
I'd like to see Peter design a functional new movement in the next 4 weeks. That might humble the industry somewhat. Unfortunately I am entirely incapable of adding anything useful to the process!
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Peter? , he's called BillyR
well, I always go on about how I love how a full balance bridge looks and so here's mine.
It's not much at the moment as it's just the first level of subtractions for the form.
just imagine it with fully chamfered/anglaged edges and Geneve stripes across the top.
I can't believe that took me another hour just to get that done - completely my fault as I mixed my line types and had to repeat a lot of the bse drawing.
Looks good so far I'll be watching this threadwell, I always go on about how I love how a full balance bridge looks and so here's mine.
It's not much at the moment as it's just the first level of subtractions for the form.
just imagine it with fully chamfered/anglaged edges and Geneve stripes across the top.
I can't believe that took me another hour just to get that done - completely my fault as I mixed my line types and had to repeat a lot of the bse drawing.
Check you my youtube channel - Blanchy Talks Watches
last bit of playing for now.
blue screws and a three pronged balance wheel.
I'm being very generous with clearance space as really, I'm not actually designing a watch movement - I'm just modelling one as a means to learn how one works and how one is put together.
Alas, I won't have AutoCAD with me and while I can potter away in Sketchup for this, it lacks the precision control that I prefer.
What that means is that I'd probably crack on with the maths instead and see about sketching some layouts for something that I'd be more happy about calling a "design".
If anything, this little exercise is showing my just how rusty I am when it comes to modelling.
For instance, I know I will have to re-make that balance bridge because applying a chamfer is causing me grief at the moment.
Shot for the day.
Learning about gears
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