Hayseed Brown

One need not look far to find contemporary wristwatches that were influenced by the styles of their predecessors from the 1970s. The very popularity of two iconic Gerald Genta pieces from the seventies, the Patek Philippe Nautilus (the 5711 flies off shelves with legendary abandon) and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (in its infinitesimal iterations), proves the spirit of the seventies to be alive and well in 2015. Glashutte Original even released their own homage to the decade when they introduced their appropriately-titles “Seventies” line in 2011.

And, while any of the aforementioned watches are beautiful reinterpretations of classics that will provide shiny newness reminiscent of days past, what about those of us who seek the real thing? Who want a tangible piece of the seventies, from the seventies? Who want that big style without dropping those big bucks? The true watch collector knows where this one is headed…going vintage.

While there are a myriad of watches from the 1970s worth considering, let’s take a look at two worthy examples that embody the panache of that time-period, the Zenith Respirator-X Day/Date and the Omega Seamaster Day/Date.

Cases
Perhaps the most defining attribute of a watch that screams “seventies” is the case shape, including the bezel. Both the Zenith Respirator-X and Omega Seamaster have TV screen cases, which amount to squarish bezels with rounded corners. Think 1950s tube televisions.

While the Zenith Respirator-Xs from the 1970s seem to have been made exclusively in this TV screen case, certain Omega Seamasters from the 1970s will also feature circular bezels and crystals. The TV screen Seamasters give off more of a seventies vibe, and the watch may “wear” larger due to the greater dial surface area. Both watches are usually found with silver-colored dials, day and date windows at three o’clock, applied indices, and sweeping seconds hands. Both dials feature a combination of print and italic lettering.

When it comes to the dial size, the Omega Seamaster beats the Zenith Respirator-X, 35mm to 30mm. While those measurements seem slim to today’s standards, the TV screen cases help beef-up these watches’ appearance, because corner to diagonal corner winds up being greater than the listed sizes. The stainless steel bracelets of these watches, which are each about 20mm at the lugs, also help to give them a modern wrist-presence.

Bracelets
In looking at the bracelets, Omega wins quality-wise, as the Seamaster’s links are made from solid stainless steel, and the Zenith Respirator-X’s links are made from rolled or folded steel. The folded steel bracelet, though made by an easier, cheaper, and less durable production method, doesn’t sacrifice looks. Because of the thinness of the steel sheets used to produce the links, Zenith is able to produce a bracelet with slim-sized links that flow nicely together.

There are two things to look out for when looking at the bracelets of these watches. The first is in reference to the Omega, and that is to make sure that the bracelet is complete and will fit its intended wrist. Because the Omega Seamasters from the 1970s use integrated bracelets, replacement with a leather strap is difficult, and replacement with a NATO strap (often adorned by vintage watches) is near-impossible. The second thing is regarding the Zenith bracelet: make sure it’s not too warped. Heavy use will warp a folded steel bracelet to a much greater degree than it would a solid steel bracelet. While the Zenith Respirator-X will take a replacement strap easier than the Omega, it’s the stainless bracelet really completes that whole seventies look.

Movements
When purchasing a vintage watch, one should almost always service the movement immediately to avoid any future surprises. One of the things to consider with these watches is that the day/date mechanism that was added to these manufacturers’ base movements may increase the service costs. Both movements are automatics, and, if properly maintained by watchmakers versed in vintages, should be dependable and long-lasting. The movement in the Omega Seamaster is the Caliber 1020, and the movement in the Zenith moves at 36,000 beats per hour. Of the two, the Zenith has the more interesting movement, if only for the high beat-rate.

Final Thoughts
The Zenith Respirator-X and Omega Seamaster are both striking wristwatches from the 1970s. If I wanted something a bit more refined, I’d go with the Omega; with a bit more funk, I’d go with the Zenith. Both watches will give you value for your money, fodder for your watch buddies, and style for your wrist.

So, boogie on down to your favorite vintage watch shop and pick up a slice of that 1970s style you know you’ve been missing.





Images are borrowed, promised to be returned at a later date.